| Queen
Charlotte Islands (Haida Gwaii) |
When you stand on the west coast of the Charlottes,
nothing lies between you and Japan except the great
expanse of the North Pacific. Currents from across the
ocean kiss the shores of Haida Gwaii, washing up all
kinds of interesting treasure. The most common find
on the beaches used to be the glass floats used on Japanese
fishing nets, but lately all kinds of artifacts have
washed up, from enough dead jellyfish to make it look
like a freak snowstorm has hit the beach, to hockey
pads and Nike shoes spilled from passing freighters.
Glass floats make great souvenirs; dead jellyfish don't.
Occasionally,
you'll find the bleached bones of a dead whale, or a
thick knot of rope. Litter on the beaches, such as the
ubiquitous empty dish detergent bottles, are reminders
that the world is awash in plastic. The west side of
the Charlottes is dotted with pocket coves and beaches,
most of which cannot be reached by road, but you can
spend a day combing beaches around Rennell Sound.
To reach these shores, travel north from Queen Charlotte
City on gravelled Skidegate Main Line Forest Rd for
about 25 miles (40 km). The road divides north and south
along Rennell Sound. Watch for beach access points in
either direction.
Fraser Plateau: West Lake Provincial Park is
located west of Prince George on Hwy 16, then 9 miles
(14 km) south on Blackwater Rd. There are tables and
a covered shelter that doubles as warming hut in winter,
as well as a sandy beach for swimming. Hiking trails
around the north end of the lake double as cross-country
trails in winter.
Paarens Beach Provincial Park and Sowchea Bay Provincial
Recreation Area both have picnic tables and firepits.
Paarens Beach is 9 miles (15 km) west of Fort St. James
on Stuart Lake; Sowchea Bay is 1.5 miles (3 km) beyond.
Red Bluff Provincial Park, 28 miles (45 km) north of
Topley on the west shore of Babine Lake, is a pleasant
spot to pull out the old basket. After lunch, go for
a swim in Babine Lake.
In the town of Telkwa, try Eddy Park beside the blue
waters of the Bulkley River, or Tyhee Lake Provincial
Park to the north off Hwy 16, with beachside picnic
tables and a covered shelter. One of the more unusual
parks in this region is Driftwood Canyon Provincial
Park,
northeast of Smithers and Hwy 16. It is located in a
fossil-lined canyon, ripe for exploring by the amateur
paleontologist. Please, take only photographs.
The highest point on Hwy 16 is the Six Mile Summit
on China Nose Mountain, about 25 miles (40 km)
west of Burns Lake. As the road climbs to highest point
on Hwy 16 (elevation 4,695 feet/1423 m), views of the
rolling mountains in the Bulkley and Morice Ranges stand
revealed. (Far from being a derogatory term, China Nose
refers to a savvy Chinese miner who told area residents
'China knows where the gold is; hence, the corruption.)
The
Hungry Hill, west of Houston, has nice views
of surrounding mountains from this roadside pullout,
complete with a picnic table. The Bulkley View Rest
Area west of Houston, offers fine views of the Bulkley
Valley.
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