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The Information
provided here describes boating opportunities in the Fraser Valley.
Some of the information is exclusively for canoes and kayaks, but
most venues can be enjoyed by both boaters and paddlers.
North Fraser Valley
Over
the past decade, an increasingly large amount of land has been opened
to the public as park in the region around Pitt Lake, at
the northwestern corner of the Fraser Valley. Today, Grant Narrows,
Widgeon Marsh, and Minnekhada Regional Parks straddle both sides
of the Pitt River as it carries water from the intertidal lake to
the nearby Fraser River. All of this abundantly rich land is the
traditional territory of the Katzie people. The four reserves that
they now occupy include one at the outlet of Pitt Lake adjacent
to Grant Narrows. The recently created Pinecone
Burke Provincial Park borders the reserve and encompasses much
of the western side of the lake, while Golden
Ears Provincial Park's boundary is the eastern shore.
It's easy to
see why the Katzie have always spent most of their time around the
south end of the lake. In times gone by, sturgeon, salmon, and eulachon
flourished in the river, while berries and wapato (a potato-like
tuber) grew in the sloughs where ducks, geese, and sandhill cranes
foraged. The abundance was staggering. Occasionally, a Katzie hunting
party would venture up the east side of the lake in search of mountain
goats. Only in summer do the surefooted animals descend the steep
slopes of the fjord in search of drinking water. Ancient pictographs
still visible on the sheer rock face above the southwest side of
the lake detail such hunting scenes. Although you'd have to make
like a goat to reach them, the red ochre shapes are clearly visible
from the lakeshore.
Several superb
locations await paddlers searching for freshwater adventure and
wildlife in this region. From May to September there are canoes
for rent at both Grant Narrows and Alouette Lake, so you don't need
your own boat to share in the experience. Grant Narrows Regional
Park, at the south end of Pitt Lake, is the starting point for
river exploration of a large, intertidal marsh that includes nearby
Widgeon Creek. In Pitt Meadows, turn north off Hwy 7 at the Harris
Road stoplights east of the Pitt River Bridge where a large sign
points to Pitt Lake. Harris Road meanders north, then east. Turn
north again at Neeves Road. Once across a narrow bridge over the
Alouette River, the road becomes rougher and its name changes from
Neeves to Rennie. Deep ditches line each side of the road as mountains
begin to rise before you. You are now in Pitt Polder, travelling
beside the broad Pitt River north towards Pitt Lake. Grant Narrows
Park lies at the end of the road. Although Grant Narrows is a pocket-sized
park, it serves as the gateway to several adjacent wilderness areas,
such as the Pitt-Addington Marsh Wildlife Management Area.
By far the most popular feature in the park is the boat launch.
There is a charge for trailer-mounted boats; car-top boats launch
for free. The Greater Vancouver Regional District has set aside
a large area of the marsh at the mouth of Widgeon Creek, where it
flows into the Pitt River, as a wildlife reserve. The GVRD offers
seasonal nature programs that involve paddling in the Widgeon Marsh
Reserve.
Widgeon
Creek is the destination of choice for most paddlers who sprint
across Grant Narrows to reach its protected backwater. The distance
isn't great, and it should take only 10 minutes of hard paddling
to cross the open water. Strong winds spring up on nearby Pitt Lake
in the afternoon and can kick up whitecaps that will intimidate
novice paddlers. (Note: Paddling on Pitt Lake is not recommended
because of the winds. Even experienced powerboaters on the lake
treat it with respect.) A safe approach is to launch as early in
the day as possible. In fact, to get the most out of your visit
here, explore near sunrise or sunset when wildlife is most active
and the scenery divine.
Widgeon Creek
is helpfully marked by a wooden signpost that rises up above the
water of the marsh. Follow upstream, bearing to the left early on
where another signpost points towards the Forest Service recreation
site located an hour's paddle northwest of Grant Narrows. (If you
follow the branch to the right, you enter a series of secluded backwaters
perfectly suited for wildlife observation and fishing.) Late in
the summer, when water levels are at their seasonal lows, you may
have to hop out to float your canoe across a sandbar or two. Wear
a pair of old running shoes that you can slip into and out of easily.
The shoes will also come in handy when launching from Grant Narrows'
muddy shore.
You don't have to venture far upstream before you find the first
of many fine sandy areas, suitable for sunning and picnicking. Tall
cottonwood, hemlock, and solitary Sitka spruce shade the shore as
Widgeon lazily winds its way into the folds of the nearby mountains.
A silence envelops you. The Forest Service recreation site features
a rough canoe pullout beside a broad, grassy field, where both an
old road and a trail begin. Follow either to reach Widgeon Falls.
(The old road is a holdover from the days when miners followed this
route north into the upper Pitt River valley. Today, it serves as
the southern terminus of a lengthy 8-day hiking trail through Pinecone-Burke
Provincial Park.) The hiking trail to Widgeon Falls (2.5 miles/4
km return) is a winding affair, with several steep staircases. The
road leads gently uphill to the falls and covers approximately the
same distance as the trail, but for the most scenic approach, take
the trail as it follows emerald-hued Widgeon Creek for half of the
journey. Widgeon Falls tumbles over and through a series of smooth
granite boulders. When water levels drop, it's possible to walk
out on the rock shelf beside the creek for a better look. On sunny
days you may even find a small pool for a quick dip. The best feature
of the falls is the relentless, roaring white noise it emits, a
powerful sound that clears and cleanses the mind.
Rather than
follow the crowd to Widgeon Creek, take advantage of the log booms
that line the Pitt River and float south along its banks. The booms
help cut the wake of passing motorboats. Osprey nest on the tops
of the mooring posts. In these quiet waters you'll have the best
chance of observing them, as well as herons, swans, and perhaps
even exotic sandhill cranes, whose nesting ground lies nearby in
the polder. (Polders are low-lying sections of land near rivers
and oceans, dried by using a technique perfected in Holland.) Cross
over to explore the backwaters along the western side of Siwash
Island, which conceals the true riverbank at the foot of Mount
Burke. The channel between the two is shallow. In summer, the wild
smell of marsh marigolds in bloom perfumes the air.
If you're fortunate
enough to get a ride up Pitt Lake on a powerboat that also has room
to carry or tow your canoe or kayak, June is the best time to spend
a few hours exploring the intertidal waterways of Red Slough
at the north end of Pitt Lake. That's when water from freshets,
combined with semi-annual high tides, makes navigation easiest.
Broad arms of the slough invite paddlers back into the folds of
the mountains. Lurid yellow lichen cling to the glistening, black
granite walls, creating an effect as striking as an abstract expressionist
painting.
Kanaka
Creek Regional Park in Maple Ridge is a long corridor of protected
land that stretches almost 7 miles (11 km) inland from the Fraser
River. To explore the park by canoe or kayak, head for the car-top
boat launch in a section of the park located near Kanaka and the
Fraser's confluence. Take
Hwy
7 (Lougheed Hwy) a short distance east of Maple Ridge. Just after
the highway crosses the Kanaka Creek Bridge, a green GVRD sign indicates
the way to Kanaka Creek Regional Park's Riverfront entrance.
Turn south onto River Road, cross the railway tracks, and drive
to the west end of the parking lot. The boat launch is located a
short distance from here. You can spend an idyllic 30 minutes paddling
a mile or so upstream to a fish counting station beside the 240th
Street Bridge (only open from October through mid-December). Shallow
water north of here choked with blowdowns makes paddling more difficult
- better to float back downstream through Kanaka's oxbow bends with
your binoculars at the ready. Lazily explore the last few bends
made by Kanaka between the boat launch and the Fraser. The atmosphere
in this section is one of protective solitude, with only a hint
of
a
breeze. Tall stands of evergreens and cottonwoods shade much of
the creek. From their branches, hawks eye the herons who have flown
across from their colony in Derby Reach Regional Park. Thick stands
of green vegetation are so perfectly mirrored in the creek's languid
surface that at times it is difficult to tell where the true growth
leaves off and the reflection begins. In places along the creek,
mauve, helmet-shaped penstemon flowers tower above the shoreline.
Golden Ears
Provincial Park's Alouette Lake provides a big-lake paddling
experience. Head for the day-use area where a drive-in boat launch
is nestled beside the picnic area. Canoe and kayak rentals are available
at lakeside from June to September. The best time to explore the
length of the 10-mile (16-km) lake is early or late in the day.
Strong winds often arise at midday, which make paddling a tough
proposition. As Alouette is a flooded lake (there's an unobtrusive
earthen dam at its south end), the forest descends to the waterline.
You'll find only a few good landing spots in case of trouble; the
lake's east side is particularly rough.
If you wish
to explore the less-visited northern half of Alouette Lake, you
can save yourself an hour or more of paddling time by portaging
your canoe or kayak from the Gold Creek parking lot to North
Beach. A service road leads from the parking lot to a dock at
the beach, a 15-minute hike. As you approach Moyer Creek
two prominent features stand out on the skyline, Mounts Nutt and
Gatey. You'll find much to admire as you paddle north towards wilderness
campsites at Moyer Creek, a two-hour, 2.5-mile (4-km) paddle one
way. In summer, several small beaches stand revealed on the lake's
west side, perfect places to pause for a break in the paddling while
you enjoy a dip.
If you're planning
a visit to modest-sized Rolley
Lake Provincial Park, you can launch a small boat or inflatable
raft from the beach. Powerboats are not allowed on Rolley Lake and
tranquillity prevails here. Bring binoculars for wildlife viewing,
and perhaps a fishing rod. A companion site to the BC Hydro recreation
site at Buntzen Lake is located at the dam that separates Stave
and Hayward Lakes near Mission. As at Buntzen Lake, only
hand-powered boats or boats with electric motors are permitted on
Hayward Lake. Larger, more powerful boats should launch on Stave
Lake at a site 0.6 mile (1 km) north of the North Beach turnoff.
The boat launch for Hayward Lake is just beside the North Beach
parking lot and has its own driveway down to the lake. Although
a paddle on the lake can be enjoyable, there are almost no places
along the shoreline to find shelter should you encounter strong
winds.
East of Mission's
Hatzic Lake, where you can launch a car-top boat at Neilson
Regional Park, the Lougheed Hwy runs through the small town
of Dewdney and then crosses a bridge onto Nicomen Island. Just before
the bridge, River Road leads off to the right and follows the shoreline
of Nicomen Slough past a pub and a number of wharves to Dewdney
Nature Park, where there's a vehicle boat launch. The Fraser
River flows past just beyond sight, a short distance south of the
boat launch. This is a languid section of the river where a series
of sloughs forms backwaters away from the river's main course. Strawberry
Island lies at the east end of Nicomen Slough. (In the
1930s, strawberries were a major cash crop in the Hatzic area.)
This is one of the quietest backwaters between here and the eastern
end of the Fraser Valley.
Kilby
Provincial Park is located east of Mission, a short distance
off Hwy 7 on wide-mouthed Harrison Bay. There is a paved boat launch
here, particularly popular with water-skiers.
Weaver
and nearby Morris Creeks are excellent locations to explore
when paddling the Harrison River as it flows from Harrison
Hot Springs to Harrison Bay, about 12 miles (18 km) in total. You
can do it point-to-point if you have two vehicles. Leave one at
the boat launch at Kilby Provincial Park on Harrison Bay and another
beside the public boat launch at the west end of the municipal beach
in Harrison Hot Springs. Paddling is one of the best ways
to see the languid side of the Harrison system. Wildlife lingers
here - why shouldn't you?
Chehalis
Lake, the source of the rugged Chehalis River, is cupped in
the round folds of the mountains west of Harrison Lake. Although
not nearly as large as Harrison, it is surrounded by many smaller
lakes beside which you'll often find a modest Forest Service recreation
site with a picnic table or two. The Forest Service sites on Chehalis
Lake, complete with their own vehicle boat launches, are far grander
than most others in the Fraser Valley. Unfortunately, the steepness
of the hillside surrounding the lake makes reaching these sites
a challenge. Chehalis Lake is typical of the long, narrow trenches
scoured out by glaciers, work that these icy tongues still carry
on nearby at higher elevations. Hemmed in by mountains on both sides,
the scenery here is not as dramatic as elsewhere in the Coast Mountains.
Only snowcapped Mount Fletcher really impresses. Its peak is best
viewed from the middle of the lake, one good reason for paddling
here. Another is the clear, deep, pale-green colour of the water.
The southern half of the lake is prettiest as it has not been as
affected by logging. Chehalis is perfectly suited to canoeing because
it is not as prone to strong winds as other North Fraser Valley
lakes such as Alouette or nearby Harrison. A dozen small creeks
flow or fall into the lake and chill its waters.
Boat-launch
ramps are located at the Chehalis Lake South and Skwellepil Creek
Forest Service campsites. To
reach these sites, watch for the Sasquatch Inn on Hwy 7, just north
of the Harrison River Bridge. This is where you begin the 20-mile
(32-km) journey to Chehalis Lake via paved and gravel roads. Two
roads branch north here, one on each side of the inn. They both
link up at an intersection behind the inn and continue as the Morris
Valley Road. A short distance farther, the Chehalis Valley Forest
Road branches north and leads to Chehalis Lake. A second approach
to the lake is via the Fleetwood Forest Road that begins on the
east side of the Chehalis River Bridge. A medium-sized Forest Service
recreation site is located on the east side of the bridge. (If you
follow paved Morris Valley Road farther east it divides: one branch
leads east to Weaver Creek and the other north to Hemlock Valley.
Both Chehalis Valley and Fleetwood Forest Roads are gravelled roads
that serve as active logging routes. Watch for information signs
posted regarding their use. Drive with your headlights on and exercise
extreme caution, especially on weekdays. The two roads merge near
marker 13. There is a Forest Service site with vehicle boat launch
at the south end of the lake. The approach to both this site and
the one at Skwellepil Creek is rough and steep. It's often
best if someone gets out to check road conditions before attempting
a descent. The first views of the lake occur at marker 15.
In spring and
early summer, when water levels are at their annual high, there's
challenging river kayaking and rafting on both the Chehalis
and Chilliwack Rivers. The Chilliwack and the Chehalis are
both geologically young rivers, prone to changing their course from
one spring runoff to the next. Be as mindful of sweepers as of boulder
gardens.
The Chehalis
River flows south from Chehalis Lake into the Harrison River.
Whitewater adventurers seek out the Chehalis in May and June when
water levels are high. Experienced paddlers put their canoes and
kayaks in at an obscure point just above the river's confluence
with Statlu Creek near marker 14. The presence of vehicles beside
the road is a tip-off. Unfortunately, the Chehalis's red-rock canyon,
waterfalls, and caves are hidden from sight by dense stands of scrub
forest. You must run the river to view them. For information on
guided rafting and kayak trips on the Chehalis, contact the Mission
Info Centre
Sasquatch
Provincial Park near Harrison Hot Springs touches on four lakes,
two of which - Deer and Hicks - are well suited to exploring in
small boats. (Electric motors only on Deer Lake's diminutive surface,
and 10hp is the maximum permitted on Hicks.) There are boat launches
at both Deer and Hicks. Paddle to isolated Sandy Beach at Hick's
south end, well worth the journey. It's always less crowded than
the beach beside the campground. Two small islands also lie offshore
in Hicks Lake and make for easygoing exploring.
South Fraser Valley
The Chilliwack River is better known than the Chehalis, which
lies almost due north on the opposite side of the valley. A challenging
section of the Chilliwack is used as a race course and training
site for Canada's national kayak team. Watch for the metal flags
strung above the river east of the Vedder Crossing Bridge that outline
the kayak slalom course. In total, there are almost 22 miles (33
km) of the Chilliwack to run. Conditions on the river are more demanding
in some sections than others. Only advanced kayakers should attempt
to paddle the entire length when the river is at full flow. For
paddlers in search of an intermediate-level outing, try the section
between the Chilliwack River salmon and steelhead fish hatchery
and the Vedder Bridge, a distance of about 12 miles (20 km).
To reach the
Chilliwack River, take exit 104 from Hwy 1 in Chilliwack towards
the Chilliwack Lake
Provincial Park at Cultus
Lake Provincial Park. Once you've made the exit you are on No.
3 Road. South of Yarrow is the small river settlement of Vedder
Crossing. Turn east here on the Chilliwack Lake Road. Numerous Forest
Service recreation sites are sprinkled beside the Chilliwack River
and afford launch and rest areas.
Cultus Lake
is a popular location for waterskiing and jet-boating, but one of
the most enjoyable ways to visit here is in the tranquillity provided
by a canoe or kayak. You don't have to paddle far out from the undulating
shoreline to get a good look at International Ridge, which rises
above the east side of the lake. In fall, the ridge blazes with
colour.
Both Jade Bay and Maple Bay in nearby Cultus Lake
Provincial Park have a boat launch.
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