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Bronze
Mermaid, Saltery Bay Provincial Park.
Photo by Bob Coval
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The Strait of
Georgia's cold, clean waters provide the greatest diversity of Marine
life in North America - "second only to the Red Sea",
according to Jacques Cousteau!
Marvellous visibility,
intriguing shipwrecks, incredible corals and the giant Pacific octopus
make the oceans around Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands and the
Sunshine Coast an underwater paradise for diving enthusiasts.
The coastline
of the Island is richly diverse, creating many different habitats
and environments for marine life. Consider the giant Pacific octopus,
which grows to be the largest in the world in these waters, weighing
as much as 60 kgs with tentacles stretching to over seven metres!
Whether you visit these fellows residing in the Saanich Inlet, check
on the progress of the artificial reef slowly taking shape offshore
from Brentwood Bay or marvel at the abalone and unusual coral off
Saturna Island, the waters
around Vancouver Island offer some of the most rewarding dives in
the world. There are numerous shipwrecks around the coast, which
have become habitats for sharks, eels and octopi. Of course, these
waters are also host to myriad other activities such as kayaking,
sailing, and whale watching, so you need not limit your choice of
recreation.
All that colour!
All those fish! And the amazing clarity to see it all in! The water
is not much colder than the waters of northern California, permitting
diving year round. Winter diving is popular, and in some respects
is even better than summer diving, as the water temperature is only
a degree or two lower, but the visibility is so much better in winter.
There is not as much spawning taking place, so there is far less particle
matter in the water clouding visibility. Many of the dive areas are
also more open and accessible as the bull kelp dies off in winter,
increasing visibility and easing navigation underwater.
Vancouver Island
has it all; sea caves, cliffs, walls, natural and artificial reefs,
an assortment of shipwrecks plus scuttled ships and airplanes, sandy
bottoms and stunning rock formations, shore and boat-based dives.
From the wild Pacific coast to the sheltered marine ecosystems of
the Gulf Islands, exploring a 100-year-old wreck or drifting along
1000 ft rock wall, you can experience the variety of different locations
that feature unique one-of-a-kind dive experiences. If the list
seems endless, it is!
Vancouver Island
Greater Victoria The Straits of Georgia and Juan de Fuca meet
in the waters off southern Vancouver Island, creating a wonderful
diversity of marine life. Diving in Victoria
ranks amongst the world's best. At Ogden Point, divers continuously
plunge off the breakwater - every day of the year. An assortment of
rockfish, kelp greenlings, nudibranchs, perch, and sea stars can be
seen. Octopus and wolf eel also enjoy the protection of the blocks
for their dens. Off Ten Mile Point you will see a spectacular
display of swimming scallops scurrying off in all directions, like
a school of false teeth. There is excellent diving from Race Rocks,
accessed out of the Inner Harbour by boat, with the West Wall
considered to be the top dive site in the Victoria area. There, divers
claim to have seen the most marine life anywhere. It is host to a
combination of protected-water sea life, and outer west coast wildlife.
Further west in Race Passage lies the wreck of the Barnard Castle,
a turn-of-the-century steam ship. Off the town of Sidney,
where much of the diving in Greater Victoria occurs, the G.B.
Church and the HMCS MacKenzie are two sunken
diving reefs providing opportunity for some great underwater exploration
- keep an eye out for nesting lingcod, rockfish, swimming scallops
and other filter-feeding critters. Saanich Inlet is located
near Sidney on southeastern part of Vancouver Island. Although diving
is good year round, during the winter months you can enjoy several
excellent boat dives in Saanich Inlet with crystal clear visibility.
At Senanus Island you can find great colonies of cloud sponge
at 21-27 meters (70-90 feet). At times the clusters of sponge seem
to dwarf a buddy! Looking carefully in the openings of the sponge,
you might find small rockfish or crabs partially hidden and peering
out. Saanich Inlet also has some impressive wall diving and reefs
excellent for macro or close-up photography. Small kelp and decorator
crabs, nudibranchs, shrimp and anemones are also easy to find at most
locations. Playful seals can be found at Repulse Rock and the snorkeling
is good year round at just about any site.
Other dive sites
are North Cod Reef, South Bedford Island, Octopus
Island, Graham's Wall, Strongtide Island and Saxe
Point. The majority of local enthusiasts dive from shore, as
the excellent shore diving negates the need for costly boat dives.
Most of the marine life in south island waters are found in depths
shallower than 18 metres, so there is no need to go to the recreational
limit of 27 metres. Dive time is therefore longer, further enhancing
the diving experience.
Pacific Rim: The West Coast of Vancouver Island is known
as the Graveyard of the Pacific, a name it earned as a result
of the many ships that have been wrecked in the area over the past
century. These wrecks, along with reefs, pinnacles and a multitude
of marine plant and animal life, including an amazing variety of
starfish, are a real lure for scuba divers. Local operators offer
boat charters, live-aboard vessels and equipment rentals, as well
as instruction and diving certification. A vast tableau of marine
life thrives in the nutrient-rich waters in Dawley Passage Provincial
Park, northwest of Tofino.
This park is a popular local dive site. Strong currents surge through
a narrow passage, which makes for clear water but sketchy conditions.
Clayoquot
Sound: A selection of dive sites include Hot Springs Cove, Blunden,
Meares and Vargas Islands. Reefs, walls, and rock formations in
the area are covered with multicoloured bat stars and an assortment
of anemone, sponge, nudibranchs, and tunicates. Located within the
boundaries of the Pacific Rim National Park on the west coast of
Vancouver Island, Barkley Sound is a unique wild coast wonderland.
With over 100 islands in the Broken Group alone, it’s easy to find
a dive site even if the weather is bad. Chup Point is a good
place for fish photography, usually yielding more than five species
of rockfish on each dive. Yellow and white dorids, orange-peel nudibranchs,
frosted and opalescent nudibranchs can be seen at Christy reef.
Renate’s Reef has numerous long gray resident wolf eels of
varying length and age. Not much remains of the 473-foot (142m)
Vanlene
since it went down in 1972 near Austin Island with its bow in shallow
water and its stern unfolding down the reef like a broken puzzle.
An abandoned Chinese migrant ship, approximately 100 feet in length,
sits upright in 95 feet (28m) of water near Canoe Island
in Sechart Channel. The hull and wheelhouse are easy to explore,
with a majority of its marine residents growing on the outer hull
and bow area.
Central
Island: There's no wreck like and old wreck, and that's what
the HMCS Columbia, scuttled by the Artificial Reef Society
near Maud Island in Discover Passage just north of Campbell
River, is fast becoming. And you don't actually have to dive
in order to enjoy an unusual underwater experience in the Campbell
River. Snorkelling here from July to September provides a rare opportunity
to watch from the surface as salmon, some as large as 50 pounds
(28 kg) school in the estuary in advance of spawning. Now that's
something you don't get to do in many places in the world! Guided
snorkel tours are available.
North Island
God's Pocket Provincial Park is a new provincial park where
the focus is on diving and habitat protection for wildlife. God's
Pocket is made up of a group of islands, the largest of which are
Bull and Hurst Islands, about 20 km due north of Port
Hardy. Most diving takes place in nearby Browning Pass, an area
highly rated by the late underwater explorer Jacques Cousteau as
one of the best diving locales in the world. The Wall, 7 Tree Island,
Croker Rock, Hunt Rock, North Wall, Rock of Life, and Hussar Point
are all great underwater photography sites. Deserter Islands
features a selection of intermediate dive sites including Barry
Islet, Whistler Pass, Toyman Gap, and Fantasea. Varied and abundant
marine life makes for great dives in this region. Nakwakto Rapids
provides advances divers a chance to experience a strong current
dive with rare and unusual creatures who thrive in this nutrient
rich seascape. Stubbs Island provides a number of advances
current dives, along with the Blowhole and Plumper Rock. Slack tide
dives reveal the top of this reef, covered in undulating kept at
15 ft. A wall descends to 170 ft, covered in sponge, anemone, basket
stars, scallops and soft coral. Nootka, Kyuquot and Quatsino
Sounds are massive fiords and channels fed from the Pacific
side of the Island offering unlimited open coast dive sites along
rugged shorelines. Esperanza Wall, Quatsino Narrows, and the pinnacles
located between Bunsby and Rugged Point are highlights of this area.
Gulf
Islands
Nanaimo
and the Northern Gulf Islands offer world-class diving, particularly
around Texada, Hornby,
and Lasqueti Islands. At
Hornby Island, from July
to August you can see six-gill sharks off Flora Island, the only
location in the Strait of Georgia to do so - its rated among the
top 10 dive sites in B.C. During the winter months diving
and snorkeling with dozens of sea lions is enjoyed at Norris
Rocks, located at the southern end of Hornby Island. Within
the shallow water surrounding the site, you can find lingcod, greenlings,
red sea urchins, scallops and huge schools of juvenile fish. Two
artificial reefs created by the sunken hulls of the former naval
ships the HMCS Saskatchewan and the Cape Brenton, offer
spectacular dive experiences for intermediate and advanced divers.
Due to strong currents, Dodd Narrows can only be dived from
a boat at slack water. The Mudge Island side of the Narrows boasts
heavily colonized sheer vertical faces. Wolf eels are also common
in the area, and occasionally during the winter months California
and Steller Sea Lions can be observed feeding on Salmon in the swift
tidal stream. A photographer's dream!
Neck Point, along time favorite of local Nanaimo divers is
a rocky peninsula with fringing islets and pinnacles where the east
face of the peninsula is a rock walls that tumbles down to 25 metres.
In winter months the wall is cruised by curious Sea Lions. Four
Fathom Reef is know locally as a prolific spawning ground for
all species of Rock Fish, Lingcod, Greenling, Spiny Pink Scallops
and Giant Pacific Octopus. At this location divers have a good chanse
of seeing the Octopus out of their dens and active during daylight
hours. An underground pinnacle rises as shallow as 8 metres from
a surrounding sea floor depth. Wolf Eel and Giant Pacific Octopus
can be seen on occasion at Clarke Rock. Dual pinnacles come as close
as metres from the surface and stand at least 30 metres from the
sea floor.
Jesse Island located in Departure Bay boasts at least three
separate, yet distrinct dive sites in very sheltered conditions
and is a very popular nightdive location. Each site has a unique
ecology ranging from rock pillars, sea caves, walls, gentle bottom
slopes and pinnacles. Snake Island is home to a large population
of harbour seals that appear clumsy and awkward as they lay on the
rocks surrounding the island, it offers unique snorkeling or viding
opportunities. The seals are inquisitive and will commonly approach
a diver to within several feet. On the west side of Snake Island
is a short shelf extending out to 50' at which point the bottom
drops away to in excess of 200' immediately. The wall is covered
with White Plumose Anemones, Boot sponge, Cloud sponge, and in addition,
a much more invertebrate marine life.
The Southern Gulf Islands are easily reached by ferry out of Swartz
Bay, just north of Victoria. Off Pender
Island, the Tilly Point Caves are like a dream, full
of florescent anemones and giant Dungeness crabs. You can enter
through one opening and exit through another. Much of the area around
these islands is an underwater reserve, its importance easily comprehended
once you've had the privilege of visiting it. Strong currents surge
through Porlier Pass, located between Galiano and Valdes
Islands. Explore Boscowitz Rock, the wreck of the 105 ft tug Point
Grey or shore dive at Pringle Park and Coons Bay. The undersea life
is abundant, with large ling cod darting among green and purple
sea urchin, nudibranch, Puget Sound king crab, war bonnet, white
pulmose and a variety of rock formations. There are many superb
dives in the area, and charter operations abound.
For the passionate
diver there are limitless opportunities for exploration around Vancouver
Island. The unrivalled beauty of the West Coast and the variety
of wild and marine life make it a vital destination for those interested
in the sport.
Sunshine Coast
Sechelt Peninsula: The Artificial Reef Society of BC scored
a major coup for divers when it was given the go-ahead to scuttle
HMCS Chaudiere, a retired Canadian Forces destroyer escort,
off Kunechin Point in Sechelt Inlet. The Chaudiere now rests on
its side in deep water (20-40m). Several descent lines lead divers
to the 118m hull of the ship and assist as guides to the surface.
Kunechin Point, in Sechelt Inlets Recreation Area, is also the site
of a marine park campground and can be reached by boat from either
Sechelt or Egmont.
Another popular dive site in Sechelt Inlet is at Tuwanek Point
Beach, where fish are so varied and numerous that you may think
you're snorkelling in Hawaii. (The chill of the waters in the inlet
will quickly disabuse you of that notion.) Swim out from Tuwanek
Point Beach to the nearby Lamb Islets to visit the 'aquarium.'
North of Sechelt the popular spot for diving begins in the waters
of Halfmoon Bay at Coopers
Green Regional Park. The relatively shallow water on the east side
of the bay provides good beginner and intermediate diving as well
as snorkelling. A note of caution: Divers must be mindful of boaters
in the water around Coopers Green Regional Park and Halfmoon Bay
in general.
The maze of coves, bays, and islands around Pender
Harbour make it the most popular diving spot on the Sechelt
Peninsula. You'll need a boat to reach the four most popular sites
at Fearney Bluffs, Nelson Rock, and Anderson
and Charles Islands.
The northeast corner of the Sechelt Peninsula is also the entrance
to the Sechelt Inlet. Boat dives originate from the village of Egmont,
a cluster of homes gathered around Secret Bay, a short distance
east of the BC Ferries terminal at Earls Cove. Three of the many
possible dive sites close to Egmont (which include the sunken Chaudiere
at Kunechin Point in Sechelt Inlet) are in the waters of Jervis
Inlet off Foley Head, in Agamemnon Channel, and the Park Wall off
North Point at the Skookumchuk Narrows.
A combination of wind and tidal currents make diving at these sites
both exhilarating and dangerous.
The
hulks form a protective breakwater and provide an excellent
dive site
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Malaspina
Peninsula: Powell River
is deservedly known as one of the premier winter diving locales
on the west coast of North America. The clarity of the water and
strong currents in Malaspina Strait are the two factors that anchor
this claim. More than 100 dive sites attract scuba divers from around
the world. One of these sites is the unusual breakwater formed by
a ring of 10 concrete-hulled Liberty ships that were sunk offshore
in 1947 to protect the deep-water harbour in front of the pulp mill.
In addition,
relics of sailing ships and sunken tugboats provide a refuge for
marine life, such as the wolf eels and giant octopi that inhabit
the deep offshore waters. A beautifully sculpted bronze mermaid
sits in 20m of water offshore from Saltery Bay Provincial Park in
Mermaid Bay.
"Take nothing
but photographs. Leave nothing but bubbles. Kill nothing but time.">
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