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North Fraser
Valley
As
you approach Vancouver, campsites get as rare as courtesy in rush-hour
traffic. Out in the Fraser Valley, where folks have more breathing
space and better manners, there are a number of stunningly beautiful
public campgrounds.
Golden Ears Provincial
Park in Maple Ridge
is a destination with many possibilities. Once there, you can fan
out through the park to explore on foot, by boat, by bike, or on
horseback. But the first order of business is to find a pad. There
are well-spaced vehicle/tent campsites at two locations inside
the park, at Alouette Lake and Gold Creek
Campgrounds, as well as wilderness campsites
dotted throughout the park's backcountry. All drive-in sites are
nestled beneath tall stands of sheltering hemlock and fir. This
canopy helps protect campers from the rain that is not uncommon
here, even during summer heat waves. Hot showers are especially
welcome after a day of 'liquid sunshine.' So is dry wood - pack
some kindling as a fire starter, just in case. The wilderness sites
at sandy North Beach require a 15-minute walk from the Gold
Creek parking area. The open beach in front of the forested sites
is a great place to watch meteor showers in early August. A note
of mild caution: because of its semi-remoteness, North Beach sometimes
attracts rowdies, particularly on graduation weekends in June.
Golden Ears
is a remarkably popular camping destination. Reserve ahead through
Discover Camping for a vehicle/tent site if you plan to stay here
between late May and early September; for those who head out on
the spur of the moment, BC Parks keeps a number of sites at Golden
Ears park available on a daily, first-come basis (turn-over time
is noon). There is a sani-station for recreational vehicles near
the entrance to the park.
As you drive
north from Hwy 7 towards Golden Ears Provincial Park, the route
follows 232nd Street, then turns east on Fern Crescent. Here it
passes Maple Ridge Park and Campground,
a lovely forested municipal campground and also home to an imaginatively
designed water park. The sound of the Alouette River is a pleasant
backdrop.
East of Maple
Ridge, the countryside becomes noticeably less populated. The well-marked
turnoff to Rolley
Lake Provincial Park is at the mill town of Ruskin and lies
6 miles (10 km) north of Hwy 7. Before reaching Ruskin, the highway
passes beside the small river towns of Albion and Whonnock. A ferry
service links Albion with Fort Langley on the south side of the
Fraser. Although much more modest in size than Golden Ears Provincial
Park, Rolley Lake Provincial Park's vehicle/tent campsites are
more spaciously laid out. Special features include hot showers and
darling Rolley Lake nearby. There is a camping fee.
A third major
park worth investigating for overnight camping in the North Fraser
Valley is Sasquatch
Provincial Park. The park, named for the elusive Big Foot reputed
to inhabit this densely wooded region, is located on the east side
of Harrison Lake, almost 4 miles (6 km) north of Harrison
Hot Springs. Harrison Hot Springs lies 4 miles (6.5 km) north
of the junction of Hwys 7 and 9. Rockwell Drive leads out to the
park and winds beside chilly Harrison Lake's east side to the park's
Green Point day-use area.
Warmer waters are found in the three small lakes located several
miles inland from Green Point. Two of them - Hicks and Deer
Lakes - feature vehicle campsites spread out
near their shores. On summer evenings, natural history talks are
presented at the amphitheatres at both sites. Hicks is the larger
of the two lakes. The facilities at diminutive Deer Lake are geared
more towards families with young children.
There's camping
west of Harrison Lake on Harrison Bay, where vehicle/tent
campsites are located just south of Hwy 7 beside the beach at Kilby
Provincial Park. The setting is lovely, but there's not much
privacy between sites here.
South Fraser Valley
Derby Reach Regional
Park near Fort Langley is the only Greater Vancouver Regional
Park that offers overnight vehicle/tent camping. (There are group
campgrounds at several other locations such as Deas Island and Campbell
Valley.) The riverfront sites here are allocated on a first-come
basis, and there is a charge per night, with a maximum stay of three
nights. The park is situated on the original townsite of Fort Langley,
the oldest continuously settled European community in British Columbia.
Tall black cottonwoods shelter the campsites and support the nests
of a colony of blue herons. To reach the park from Fort Langley,
head south on Glover to 96th Avenue. Turn west on 96th and follow
it to where it joins McKinnon Crescent, and follow McKinnon to Allard
Crescent, where you turn right to Derby Reach Park.
A series of
three provincial parks at Cultus Lake, Chilliwack Lake, and in the
Skagit Valley offer camping in the South Fraser Valley. The scenery
at each is startlingly rugged, as tall Cascade peaks rise above
broad, watery surfaces that reflect the mountains' glory. Cultus
Lake is the easiest to reach, and along a paved road too. Chilliwack
and Skagit both make you kick up some dust along their gravel approaches.
Cultus
Lake Provincial Park, on the east side of Cultus Lake, lies
nestled in the folds of the Cascade Mountains, about 7 miles (11
km) south of Hwy 1. Follow either of two signed exits as the highway
passes through Chilliwack. During summer months the gatehouse at
the entrance to the park is open 24 hours a day. If you are seeking
camping space, register here. At other times of the year simply
choose your own site. There are four campgrounds within the park,
at Entrance Bay, Clear Creek, Delta Grove,
and Maple Bay. The sites at Delta Grove are the closest to the lake. All
campgrounds have very clean facilities, though the amount of hot
water for showering depends on the time of day and the number of
visitors competing for it. Firewood is supplied at the campsites.
An overnight camping fee is charged from April to October; at other
times camping is free, but services are limited.
Chilliwack
Lake Provincial Park is located about 30 miles (50 km) east
of Cultus Lake. Take the Chilliwack Lake exit (exit 104) south from
Hwy 1, then go 9 miles (14 km) south on No. 3 Road to Chilliwack
River Road, and finally 26 miles (42 km) to the lake. The pavement
gives way to a well-maintained gravel road for the last 7.5 miles
(12 km). Situated on a bluff at the narrow lake's north end, the
park has vehicle/tent sites, the most attractive of which are
located beneath some large ponderosa pines at lakeside. A wide,
sandy beach spreads out below the bluff while, high above, the snowfields
of Mount Corriveau present themselves like the Great Wall of China.
There's a soothing sound from the nearby Chilliwack River, which
drains north out of the lake and immediately turns to whitewater.
The lake and river form the park's southern and western perimeter,
respectively. An old trail follows the river to its confluence with
Post Creek. Bootprints keep the path smooth in summer, while
in winter these trails are popular with cross-country skiers.
There are also
rustic Forest Service recreation sites near Chilliwack Lake at Post
Creek Campground and at the lake's midpoint at Paleface Creek
Campground. (Note: Of the two, Paleface is less prone to rowdies,
though there are no guarantees at any of these unsupervised sites.)
If you look
at a map of the Skagit Valley prior to the 1960s, you will
notice that a road once ran through here into Washington State.
Seattle City Light power company logged the Washington side of the
valley and flooded it in the late 1960s to provide hydroelectric
power. Although the Skagit's headwaters lie east of here in Manning
Provincial Park, the river flows south into Ross Lake. Assuming
its river form again at the lake's south end, it flows through Washington's
own Skagit Valley to meet Puget Sound near La Conner. There are
three campgrounds located along the road into the Skagit Valley,
which begins off Hwy 1 just west of the town of Hope
at the eastern end of the Fraser Valley. Take the Hope Business
Road exit and drive a short distance to the well-marked Silver-Skagit
Road turnoff. A sign posted here for the benefit of American visitors
indicates 'Hozameen 38 Miles.' (Hozameen - or Hozomeen, as it's
spelled in Canada - is the site of a US ranger station at the north
end of Ross Lake and the only road access to the lake.) Silver-Skagit
Rd is paved for only a short distance south before turning to well-graded
gravel for most of its 43.5-mile (70-km) length. Watch for Silver
Lake Provincial Park, 3.7 miles (6 km) past the bridge over
Silverhope Creek. A small campground is located here with several
dozen vehicle/tent sites. Although not within the Skagit Valley itself, the rugged
landscape that rises above this campground gives a flavour for what
lies ahead.
As the road
leads south of Silver Lake, it passes beside some of the best fishing
streams in the Lower Mainland. There are many small wilderness campsites
visible from the road beside Silverhope Creek, and the Klesilkwa
and Skagit Rivers.
Just south of
the entrance to Skagit
Valley Provincial Park is Silvertip Provincial Campground
which, along with the Ross Lake Provincial Campground 15
miles (25 km) farther south, provides the best sites for camping.
There are well-spaced vehicle/tent sites at Silvertip, the prettiest
of which are located on the banks of the Skagit River. The forest
here is a thick mix of Douglas fir and western red cedar. The wind
whistling through their branches, combined with the Skagit's rushing
water, soundproofs the environment around each campsite and gives
campers a sense of privacy. Mount Rideout rears up behind Silvertip,
at 8,029 feet (2447 m) so tall (and the campground so close) that
its peak is obscured from view here by its lower ridges. You only
get a true sense of its grandeur when you look up as you journey
farther south towards Ross Lake. Ross Lake Provincial Campground
has vehicle/tent campsites on the lake's north shore. Some sites
sit in an open area beside the lake, while the majority are set
back in the shelter of the nearby woods. Although not as cozy a
setting as Silvertip, the views from here are stunning, as several
major peaks rise above the lake. Owing to their height, the tops
of these Cascade Mountain peaks escaped the most recent period of
glaciation and boast a more rugged, less rounded appearance than
their Coast Mountain counterparts to the north.
Bring your own dry supply of kindling, especially early in the season
when the firewood is often still wet.
A short distance
south of the Ross Lake campground is another extensive campground
at Hozameen, Washington. Just past the ranger station's A-frame
residence is a boat launch, beach, and dozens of campsites beside
the lake. On a benchland above the lake are several dozen more sites,
most of which remain unoccupied except on American long weekends
in summer. There is no charge for camping at Hozameen.
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