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Deep Cove in
North Vancouver is one
of two jumping-off points for exploring Indian Arm, a steep-sided,
18-mile (30-km) fjord that branches north from Burrard Inlet just
east of the Ironworkers Memorial Second Narrows Bridge. Kayakers
(and the occasional canoeist) also launch from Belcarra
Regional Park on the east side of Indian Arm. You can explore
the south end of Indian Arm, including the islands that comprise
Indian Arm Provincial
Marine Park, in the course of a day, or set out on an extended
two- to four-day circumnavigation of the coastal inlet. The best
time to paddle here is between April and October. During monsoon
season, Indian Arm (and the North Shore generally) often receives
twice as much rain as nearby Vancouver.
In addition
to the convenience of having such a wilderness paddling environment
so close to the city, Indian Arm is also a fairly sheltered environment
in which to try ocean kayaking. However, don't let its proximity
to the city fool you into thinking all is peaches and cream. Strong
winds funnel down the inlet from Garibaldi
Provincial Park and can quickly turn a relaxing paddle into
a fight to stay afloat. On busy summer days, powerboats also kick
up a mishmash of waves that toss smaller craft around. The farther
north you go, the steeper the walls of the inlet become, providing
few places to beach in a hurry. Always exercise caution, and respect
the speed with which conditions may change during a paddle trip
here.
Some of the
places where you'll want to pause and stretch your legs along the
way include Racoon Island and Twin Islands, which
make up Indian Arm Marine Provincial Park (not to
be confused with recently created Indian Arm Provincial Park, a
large tract of undeveloped land along the west side of the inlet).
These are among the very few islands that dot Indian Arm; from Deep
Cove you'll have to cross over to the inlet's east side to reach
them. If you'd like to spend the night, there are wilderness campsites
on Big Twin Island. Water is scarce, so pack along whatever
you think you'll need. The best beaches on the inlet are located
north of Deep Cove on the inlet's west shore. As you make your way
into the more remote, northern half of Indian Arm, stop to explore
Granite Falls Regional Park on the east shore. Although there
is no development in the park, there are plenty of signs of past
logging activity around the falls. Indian River enters the extreme
north end of the inlet and creates a marshy delta that attracts
wildlife. Active logging carries on nearby; a Forest Service road
leads from here to Squamish.
What's amazing
about paddling the Capilano River is how distant the well-ordered
world nearby suddenly feels as you enter its 3.5-mile (5.6-km) drop-and-pool
course. This is an enchanted canyon and should only be attempted
by those who can handle its powerful spell. Opinion is divided as
to whether this should be attempted in an open canoe. Opinion is
united on one necessity: have a guide with you when you put in for
the first time. By July, water levels begin to drop and the river
becomes more technical. Even in summer this is most definitely a
wet suit-and-helmet river. There's only one put-in, at the top of
the canyon beside the fish hatchery. The Cleveland Dam's presence
is a reminder that water levels on the river can fluctuate daily,
depending on the amount of water released from the dam (and the
sky above). A water gauge at the west end of the weir near the salmon
pools indicates the difficulty of the water: 2-3 feet (0.6-0.9 m)
equals easy; 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8 m) equals difficult; above 6 feet
(1.8 m) equals expert only. On rainy days this river calls to local
intermediate and expert paddlers, who treasure its proximity to
home.
The other river
on the North Shore is
the Seymour, a river of a whole different hue. About the
only thing the two have in common is that they're both dammed. The
Capilano stole the Seymour's thunder when challenges were being
handed out (but don't tell that to someone learning to paddle here).
There's not a canyon in sight, just a shallow boulder-and-rock garden
riverbed, with a small patch of fast water just before the river
passes under the Seymour Creek Bridge near its confluence with Burrard
Inlet. An old weir creates a sudden drop at this point. Hang onto
your paddles. Best places to put in on the Seymour are either at
Riverside Park at the intersection of Riverside Drive (East) and
Chapman Way or at the west end of Swinburne Avenue off Riverside.
The take out is downstream from the BC Rail bridge over the Seymour
at the west end of Spicer Road off Riverside Drive (West).
Paddlers began
journeying to Horseshoe Bay
long before the arrival of the first Europeans. For Native people,
Horseshoe Bay was a traditional meeting place, used both as a seasonal
fishing encampment and a place to spend a night when travelling
between villages on the Squamish River and Burrard Inlet. The sheltered
bay was called ch'xay or Chai-hai, after the swishing sound made
by schools of little fish stirring up the waters of Horseshoe Bay.
(In 1991, it was discovered that Horseshoe Bay Park stands atop
an ancient shell midden.) Boaters launch from the federal dock next
to the park. If you want to join the throng, you can rent one from
the nearby marina. Also explore
the nest of islands at the mouth of Howe Sound, as well as
Bowen Islands extensive
shoreline and nearby Gambier and Keats Islands.
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