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Hiking in
the Thompson Nicola
Wells
Gray Provincial Park is laced with hiking trails, ranging in length
from 1 to 15 miles (1.5 to 24 km) one way. The Helmcken Falls Rim
Trail (easy; 5 miles/8 km return) leads from the Dawson Falls
Campground on Clearwater Valley Rd and follows the rim of the falls
for much of the way. The thunder of the falls grows louder as you
approach them, gradually drowning out all other sounds. In winter
this trail is open for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing for those
who wish to see the falls covered with a thick mantle of ice.
Much of the park's topography is the result of glacial erosion and
volcanic activity. One of the best hiking trails from which to observe
this is the Pyramid Mountain Trail (moderate; 8 miles/13 km
return), which leads to the summit of Pyramid Mountain, from where
hikers enjoy spectacular views of the Premier Ranges across the north
end of the park. The mountain itself exhibits fascinating volcanic
characteristics. Geologists believe that Pyramid Mountain built up
gradually beneath a thick glacial sheet as magma erupting beneath
the ice was chilled and shattered into tiny fragments by cold water
and ice. Over time, these fragments accumulated around the vent to
form a mound-shaped structure.
Hikers looking for an opportunity to journey deeper into the park
should follow the Horseshoe Falls Trail (strenuous; 21 miles/34
km return), which shares the Pyramid Mountain Trail and then continues
beyond to Horseshoe Falls. Wilderness campsites are located at the
5-mile (8-km) point and at the top of Horseshoe Falls. The well-marked
trailhead is located about 3.75 miles (6 km) north of the park entrance
on the east side of Clearwater Valley Road.
Some of the best routes in the park feature lovely alpine hiking,
with various huts to stop at along the way. (In winter, there is hut-to-hut
skiing on these same trails.) Good books to consult include Nature
Wells Gray by Goward and Hickson, and Exploring Wells Gray
Park by Roland Neave.
Several challenging hikes are possible in Mount
Robson Provincial Park, as well as many easy walking trips: there's
a hike for every skill level here. If you want a two-day hike past
glaciers and waterfalls, take the very well-known and popular Berg
Lake Trail (moderate; 27 miles/44 km return). The trailhead is
at the parking lot beside the Robson River, close to the visitors
centre. The trail leads to Kinney Lake and the base of Mount Robson,
skirts the lake, and enters a valley heavily dotted with spectacular
waterfalls and more than 15 glaciers before reaching Berg Lake, at
an elevation of 5,341 feet (1628 m).
From here the trail continues through Robson Pass into Jasper National
Park. It's possible to make a loop via the Berg Lake and Moose
Rivers Trail, a distance of about 65 miles (105 km), in approximately
seven days. This route is particularly rigorous; only attempt it if
you're a highly experienced backcountry hiker. (Note: The first half
of the Berg Lake Trail as far as Kinney Lake is accessible by mountain
bike. Some keeners have been know to bike to Kinney Lake and then
hike to Berg Lake from there, making it back to the parking lot before
sundown.)
Several other hikes are rewarding. The eastern portion of the park
has trails ranging from easy to difficult. Some of the more challenging
are Mount Fitzwilliam (moderate; 7.5 miles/12 km return to
Rockingham Creek wilderness campground; 13.5 miles/22 km return to
alpine lakes); Moose River Route (strenuous; 87 miles/140 km
return; allow six days); Fraser River Route (strenuous; 30
miles/50 km return); and Yellowhead Mountain Trail (moderate;
10.5 miles/17 km return). The Mount Fitzwilliam Trail starts at Yellowhead
Lake and continues for 4.4 miles (7 km) to the designated campsite
at Rockingham Creek. An additional 4.3 miles (6.9 km) takes hikers
up Fitzwilliam Creek to the wilderness campsite and several day-hike
opportunities. All hikers should check with park staff regarding the
condition of trails before starting off; hikers entering Jasper National
Park must register with park officials beforehand.
For the experienced backcountry hiker, Hamber Provincial Park
offers extremely beautiful scenery in a wild and rugged locale. Tucked
into the midpoint of Jasper National Park on the British Columbia-Alberta
border, Hamber is accessible by foot only. (Hwy 93 in Alberta is the
nearest highway.) There is a difficult 14-mile (22.5-km) hike in from
Sunwapta Falls in Jasper, or you can reach the park by floatplane
to Fortress Lake. At high elevation and with pristine wilderness,
this park has excellent angling opportunities and is prime grizzly
and black bear country.
A challenging 8-mile (13-km) round-trip hike in Mount Terry Fox
Provincial Park leads into the alpine zone from its trailhead
north of Valemount. Staggeringly
impressive views are everywhere along this route. Mount Terry Fox
is located 6 miles (10 km) north of Valemount off Hwy 5. It's best
to visit Trophy Mountain's self-guided trail, 'To the Treeline
and Beyond' (easy; 1.2 miles/2 km return) between the end of June
and mid-August to see the wildflowers that carpet the subalpine meadows
here. A lengthier hiking trail leads from the meadows to views of
the Shuswap Highlands from Skyline Ridge (moderate; 7.5 miles/12 km
return).
Sudden changes in the weather occur even in summer, so wear layered
clothing and bring waterproof gear (and sunscreen, just in case).
This trail is documented in a charming brochure. Pick up a copy from
the BC Parks office in Clearwater before heading out. The trailhead
in Trophy Mountain Recreation Area begins just east of Spahats Creek
Provincial Park off Clearwater Valley Rd. Follow gravelled Road 80
east of Clearwater Valley Road for about 1 mile (1.6 km), then turn
north on Road 10 for almost 2 miles (3 km), then turn east on Road
201 for 2.7 miles (4.4 km) to reach the trailhead parking lot.
In the Shuswap Highlands region east of Kamloops, hike the gentle
trails in Niskonlith
Lake Provincial Park in fall to see a host of migratory birds.
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