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Hiking in the
Okanagan
The Okanagan's
open terrain makes for ideal hiking, with little or no bushwhacking required.
The parks mentioned below offer remoteness, breathtaking landscapes, and
challenging outdoor adventure. Unless otherwise noted, these parks are
open year-round.
Okanagan Mountain Provincial
Park (48 wilderness walk-in sites) is located on the east side of
Okanagan Lake just opposite Peachland. There's no road access to the park,
but secondary roads from Kelowna
offer access to parking lots on the park's northeastern boundary. An alternative
approach is from Penticton via
Naramata on Chute Lake Road, a rough 15.5-mile (25-km) route to the south
parking lot.
This park is well suited to backwoods camping. Wilderness campsites are
located at Divide, Victor, and Baker Lakes and at Buchan Bay. From the
north parking lot, follow Golden Mile-Boulder Trail (moderate;
2 miles/3.5 km) to the Wildhorse Canyon Trail (moderate; 3 miles/5
km) and finally the Buchan Bay Trail (easy; 1 mile/1.6 km) to reach
the wilderness campsites at Buchan Bay. Wilderness campsites are located
near the south parking lot. More sites are located at Divide Lake on Okanagan
Mountain, reached via the Divide Lake North Trail (10 miles/16
km return) from the Rimrock Road parking lot, or via the Mountain Goat
Trail (6 miles/10 km return) from the south parking lot. The campsites
at Baker and Victor Lakes are reached by following the Baker Lake Trail
(moderate; 2.5 miles/4 km return) from Divide Lake.
Hiking trails provide an excellent opportunity to ramble around and see
unique plants and animal life in this semidesert wilderness region. The
lake and mountain views are good from the top of Okanagan Mountain, but
wear sturdy footwear (this park is in rattlesnake country) and carry water
between camping areas if you're hiking in summer. In addition to the backcountry
campsites, facilities also include horse-loading ramps in the north and
south parking lots, as well as marine campsites and mooring buoys on Okanagan
Lake. Hike to the top of Okanagan Mountain on the Divide Lake North
Trail (moderate; 10 miles/16 km return) from the Rimrock Rd parking
lot for beautiful views of the lake to the west and the Monashees to the
east, and check out the four archaeological sites in the park.
Nickel Plate Provincial
Park is another undeveloped wilderness area that hikers and cross-country
skiers will find rewarding. Nearby Lookout Mountain rises above the Nickel
Plate Lake region, studded with huge erratics (boulders deposited by receding
glacial ice). There's soft camping on the lake's sandy beaches. Blueberries
and other edible berries grow in the forested surroundings, as does Labrador
tea, with its white blossoms and fuzz-backed leaves, used by Native Canadians
and early settlers to make a relaxing drink. Nickel Plate is 18 miles
(29 km) northeast of Hedley,
near Apex Resort, and is accessed by a gravel road off Hwy 3A.
Bear Creek Provincial
Park features a moderate 14-mile (24-km) hiking trail as well as a
6-mile (10-km) easygoing hiking trail. Trails begin from a common trailhead
at the entrance to the park. Wear sturdy footwear because the prickly
pear cacti on the more exposed rocky slopes of the upland region of the
park can puncture skin even through clothing and running shoes. Rattlesnakes
abound here. Visitors are asked to stay on the trails in Bear Creek Provincial
Park. This area is a feast for the senses, with its expansive views of
the lake and canyon; its scent of cottonwood, pine, and fir forests; and
its splashes of colourful wildflowers. Bear Creek Provincial Park is located
5 miles (9 km) west of Kelowna
on the west side of Okanagan Lake off Hwy 97.
Silver Star Provincial Recreation Area, 14 miles 22 (km) north
of Vernon, is superb for winter
activities, and is also a great place to visit in summer for hiking and
nature rambling. In summer, Silver Star Mountain operates a chairlift
for visitors to ascend to hiking trails in the subalpine zone with fabulous
views of the Monashees in the north and east, the Shuswap Highlands in
the north and west, and the Okanagan Plateau in the south.
Walking tours in the Okanagan include Okanagan Valley International
Peace Park in Oliver and Historic Vernon and Okanagan Landing
in Vernon. Maps are available from the Oliver Visitor Info Centre on Hwy
97, and Vernon Tourism on Hwy 97.
Hardy Falls Park in Peachland
is a cool oasis in what can sometimes be a hot landscape. A pleasant walking
trail (easy; 2 miles/3 km return), complete with seven footbridges, leads
to a splendid little waterfall hidden away at the head of a narrow canyon.
The shade and the cool water attract a wide variety of wildlife as well
as human visitors. In the spring, wildflowers brighten the canyon walls
and the underbrush along the trail. Carp spawn in the creek and dippers
nest in the cracks of the waterfall. In October, crimson kokanee dart
among the riffles in the creek. Harry Hardy was one of the first orchardists
in the Westbank area, and Hardy Falls Park is named in his honour. The
park is adjacent to Antlers Beach Park, where you can head for
a dip after your walk.
The Kettle Valley Railway
when it was completed in 1906, connected numerous small communities in
southern BC, and featured many marvels of railroad construction as it
wound through mountain passes, river gorges, valleys, rural communities,
over numerous trestles and through tunnels. Today, the Kettle Valley Railway
no longer operates, and many sections of the old rail bed are now being
converted to hiking and cycling recreational uses. You can walk or hike
as much or as little of the Kettle Valley Railway Trail, south
of Kelowna, as you feel inclined to tackle. Stamina, more than conditioning,
will determine if you complete the 15-mile (24-km) round trip between
the trailheads on the Little White and Myra Forest Service Roads. As the
trail follows an abandoned railbed, the grade is moderate. This was one
of the more challenging sections of the route to engineer, and required
18 trestles and two tunnels. Washrooms are available at the trailheads
as well as near the middle of Myra Canyon. Pack along water and wear sturdy
shoes.
To reach the Little White trailhead, go south of Hwy 97 (also called
Harvey St) in downtown Kelowna on Pandosy Street, east on K.L.O. road,
then south on Spiers, June Springs, and Little White Forest Service Roads,
all of which interconnect and lead to the railbed. To reach the Myra trailhead,
travel east of Pandosy Street on K.L.O road to McCulloch Road, which joins
the Myra Forest Service Road and leads to the railbed.
Hiking in the Shuswap
Head to Herald Provincial
Park for some interesting hiking: two distinct topographical units
(upland and flat delta) have created a great terrain; there are also Native
Canadian pithouse depressions, or kekuli, in the area west of the creek,
as well as some old Native cache pits.
Roderick Haig-Brown Provincial
Park has several beautiful walks and low-key hikes; the Lower Trail
System provides access to viewing the salmon run along the Adams River.
You shouldn't miss the Reinecker Creek self-guided nature walk
here, which leads to Margaret Falls.
Eagle River Nature Park, about 7 miles (12 km) east of Sicamous,
has 10 miles (16 km) of hiking and cross-country trails.
Hiking in the Similkameen/Crowsnest
Highway
Manning
Provincial Park boasts numerous trails to suit both novice
and experienced hikers. North of Hwy 3, the Blackwall Peak and
Three Brothers Mountain area offers Canada's finest and most extensive
example of subalpine meadows accessible by vehicle. A partly paved, partly
gravel road winds up the mountain to the parking area just below the 6,768-foot
(2063-m) Blackwall Peak. At this level, the snow stays until late June
and returns in September; as a result, all kinds of plants rush into flower.
The magnificent floral displays peak from late July to mid-August, when
the meadows provide a kaleidoscope of colours.
The short Paintbrush
Trail (easy; less than 1 mile/1.6 km) beginning at the naturalist
hut introduces visitors to the fascinating world of the subalpine zone.
To experience more extensive floral displays and better views of the mountain
peaks, hike along part or all of the Heather Trail (moderate; 26
miles/42 km return) to Nicomen Ridge. In places, the carpets of flowers
spread 3 miles wide; in others, they condense into massive mats of arctic
lupines speckled with Indian paintbrushes and subalpine daisies. A park
booklet helps with flower identification en route. Plants, of course,
should never be damaged or removed, and hikers must not venture off the
trail. Wilderness camping areas are located along the Kicking Horse
Trail at Kicking Horse, at about 8 miles (13.5 km), and Nicomen
Lake, at just over 14 miles (23 km). This area has a permanent ban
on open fires, so backpacking stoves should be used for all cooking. Overnighters
can return the same way or, with the use of two vehicles, along Grainger
Creek Trail and Hope Pass Trail (moderate; 7.5 miles/12 km),
coming out on Hwy 3 at Cayuse Flats, about 15 miles (24 km) west of Manning
Provincial Park headquarters.
Shorter trails in
the park include one to the top of Windy Joe Mountain (moderate
to difficult; 9.3 miles/15 km return), where an old fire lookout with
interpretive panels identifies the surrounding mountains. Frosty Mountain
Loop (difficult; 17 or 18 miles/28 or 29 km return, depending on route)
is most colourful in the fall, when its beautiful larch forest is on fire
with autumnal shades. The highest peak in the park at 7,900 feet (2408
m), Frosty offers fabulous views of the North Cascades.
Awe-inspiring peaks
and wildflower meadows can be experienced along the Skyline I Trail
(difficult; 12.7-mile/20-km loop) and Skyline II Trail (difficult;
7.8 miles/12.5 km to Mowich Camp), which heads west towards the Skagit
Valley Provincial Park. Manning Provincial Park also contains a section
of the Canada-wide National Trail, which enters the park in its
southeast corner as Monument 83 Trail from Cathedral Provincial Park.
For real long-distance hiking buffs, Manning is the start of the Pacific
Crest Trail, which runs for 2,480 miles (4000 km) to Mexico. Detailed
descriptions of all park trails are available at the visitors centre.
Trails are so plentiful
and wonderfully diverse in this section of the Cascade Mountains that
only a few can be mentioned here. The Skagit River Trail (easy;
9 miles/15 km one way) can be accessed from Hwy 3 at Sumallo Grove, about
6.5 miles (10.5 km) from Manning Provincial Park's western entrance. From
the junction of the Sumallo and Skagit Rivers, the trail follows the latter's
beautiful valley bottom along the original Whatcom Trail into the Skagit
Valley Recreation Area.
The Cascade Provincial
Recreation Area is located on the north side of Hwy 3, adjacent to
Manning Provincial Park. Situated in the magnificent Cascade Mountains,
largely within the Hozameen Range, it contains such spectacular landscapes
that an early Hudson's Bay Brigade Trail explorer named its Paradise Valley
area the 'Garden of Eden.' Unlike Manning Provincial Park, it contains
no road network. Access is chiefly via trail from two parking lots along
Hwy 3 in Manning Provincial Park, at Snass Creek (just east of Rhododendron
Flats) and Cayuse Flats.
In the late 1850s,
gold was discovered on the Columbia, Fraser, Thompson, and Similkameen
Rivers. The Cascade Provincial Recreation Area contains three important
historic trails dating from this period - the Dewdney, Whatcom,
and Hope Pass Trails - any one of which constitutes an all-day hike.
Originally designed
to be a mule trail to the Similkameen, the Dewdney Trail became
a wagon road between Fort Hope and Snass Creek. A moderate 10-mile (16-km)
section leading from Hwy 3 follows Snass Creek to Dry Lake and Paradise
Valley. The
Whatcom Trail (difficult; 10.5 miles/17 km one way) was built by
the citizens of Whatcom, Washington, who wanted a trail from the gold
fields through their town. Also accessed from the Snass Creek parking
lot, it veers northeast and climbs steeply through forest and meadows
to Whatcom Pass and the Punchbowl, continuing on to Paradise Valley. Hiking
up on the Dewdney Trail and returning on the Whatcom Trail makes an interesting
two-day loop.
The Hope Pass
Trail was an alternative to the Dewdney Trail built by the Royal Engineers.
From the junction of the Sumallo and Skaist Rivers (at the Cayuse Flats
parking lot), it follows the Skaist River to its source, then crosses
the divide at Hope Pass and heads northeastward along Whipsaw Creek to
the Similkameen. With proper transportation arrangements, one could complete
this strenuous 16-mile (26-km) hike by coming back on Hwy 3 at 41-Mile
Creek, 30 miles (48 km) east of the Manning Provincial Park visitors centre.
Cathedral
Provincial Park, located 30 miles (48 km) southeast of Princeton
off Hwy 3, is in the transition zone between the dense, wet forests of
the Cascade Mountains and the arid, desertlike Okanagan Valley. This mountainous
park presents a wealth of variety in its terrain, flora, and fauna, as
well as hiking opportunities suitable for both the novice and the seasoned
climber. The five major lakes in the heart of Cathedral are like azure
gemstones, surrounded by jagged peaks mantled with alpine and subalpine
wildflowers. There are more than 230 plant species in the park, including
over 20 that are rare in British Columbia. Fascinating rock formations
with names like Smokey the Bear, the Devil's Woodpile, and Stone City
make hiking in this park a thrilling adventure.
No water is available other than from lakes and streams as you cross the
20 miles (32 km) of hiking trails. You'll find overnight parking at the
trailheads and six info shelters, where detailed information on the park
is displayed. Experienced, well-equipped hikers might want to tackle a
section of the Centennial Trail, which runs about 250 miles (400
km) from Osoyoos all the way to Burnaby. Many other trails wind through
the park, most starting in the core area around Quiniscoe Lake.
All the trails are detailed in the park brochure available at the info
shelters. Note: This road is closed to all but lodge and BC Parks vehicles.
From Hwy 3 a rough gravel road skirts the north and most of the west boundary
of the park. Access roads are not maintained.
Located just to the
east of Hope, the Coquihalla
Canyon Provincial Recreation Area allows visitors to explore an engineering
marvel. The Othello Tunnels were built from 1911 to 1918 to complete
the Kettle Valley Railway. They were cut through solid granite to allow
the railway to span the 300-foot-deep (90-m) Coquihalla Canyon, at a whopping
cost (for the time) of $300,000. Plagued by washouts and rock slides,
the railway line was closed in 1959. The impressive chain of tunnels,
linked by a suspension bridge and a wooden bridge, is a major attraction
during summer months. A leisurely walk (2.5 miles/4 km return) on the
abandoned railway grade will take you though the tunnels and the spectacular
Coquihalla Canyon gorge. Flashlights are useful inside the tunnels. Traffic
heading northeast should enter Hope and follow Kawkawa Lake Rd and Othello
Rd east for about 5 miles (8 km) to reach the park. Southwest-bound traffic
on Hwy 5 (the Coquihalla Hwy) should take exit 183. Pit toilets and picnic
tables are available near the parking lot.
Hiking in Boundary Country
The trailhead at Midway Village ( on the Myers Creek Road just
southeast of Midway) has nearly 6 miles (10 km) of easy to difficult hiking
and biking trails from Midway to a scenic viewpoint on the international
border.
The route to Thimble
Mount Viewpoint (moderate; 9 miles/14 km return) is well groomed and
perfectly suited for hiking, biking, and horseback riding, with an abandoned
turn-of-the-century mine site in the area. To reach the trailhead, turn
north off Hwy 3 between Greenwood
and Grand Forks on BC
Mine Road. The trailhead is located about 1.5 miles (2.5 km) on the east
side of the road.
Aside from the parks mentioned above, the most interesting trail in the
Boundary area has to be the abandoned Kettle Valley Railway itself. Bikers,
hikers, and horseback riders can pick up the trail at Grand Forks, Greenwood,
or Midway (all along Hwy 3) or at Rock
Creek, Westbridge, or Beaverdell (all along Hwy 33). The Kettle
River Provincial Recreation Area makes a good staging area. This 'rails-to-trails'
route is for those who like difficulty measured in distance travelled
rather than miles per second or wipeouts per trip. The trail is not formally
managed, and doesn't have heart-stopping thrills or technically difficult
riding, but your heart will beat a little faster crossing trestles nearly
200 feet (60 m) high (walk your bike).
The river's eastern bank can be explored for the remains of gold and silver
mines, but keep a sharp eye out for old mine shafts and adits (horizontal
entrances or passages). Wondering about the name? A kettle is a peculiar
geological formation left over from the most recent ice age. These steep-sided
depressions (also known as potholes) mark the ground where ice boulders
were once trapped between rock.
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